Monastery of Debre Damo

The monastery of Debre Damo is notable for its 6th century Axumite stone church, as well as for its impregnable cliff top position. This isolated relic lay on a 2800m high amba (flat topped hill) covering an area of 0.5m2 and sheer cliffs. The flat topped ”Imba” (plateau) measures about 1000 meters from northeast to southwest and 500 meters from northwest to southeast. It is surrounded by sheer cliffs. Ascent to the mountaintop is made possible via a 15-meter plaited leather rope (the ”Jende”) that hangs from the summit. The church is dedicated to its founder, Abune Aregawi, one of the ‘nine saints’ who taught gospel in the 6th century. According to local tradition, Abune Aregawi is believed to have been taken to the top of the Imba with the help of a serpent that was commanded to do so by God. Today, the ‘Jende’ symbolizes the miraculous serpent. Visitors need to be tightly tied up around their waists by the supplementary rope as a means of additional safety. Female visitors are not allowed to access the church. On top of the Imba, there are two churches. The main one, 20m deep and 9m wide, was constructed under the auspices of Emperor Gebre Meskel. He was the Axumite king who reigned in the 6th century. It is believed to have been built of the very site where the serpent had safely dropped the founder. Described by Richard Pankurst as ”a veritable jewel of ancient Ethiopian architecture”, the church is built following an Aksumite style of construction: layers of stone alternated with layers of wood. The walls are constructed of stones and strengthened with longitudinal beams, which are themselves fixed to the walls with projecting woods known as ”monkey heads.” The walls of the church show resemblance to the decorative styles displayed on the obelisks of Aksum. The monolithic pillars, the walls, the beams, the wooden doors, and windows reflect Aksumite architecture. On the ceiling of the sanctuary, one can observe wooden carvings of cattle, elephants and water birds. Ancient stone pillars can also be inspected in the sanctuary and the Holy of Holies. The church has undergone few restoration works, and therefore has retained its original structure. The second church is built on the eastern verge of the Imba. According to local tradition, this is the site where Abune Aregawi vanished unnoticed, hence ”Misiwarom” (literally a place where he vanished from). It is a small church only frequented by hermits living on the Imba. Debre Damo is second to none in terms of monastic life in Ethiopia. On the top of the Imba, there are hundreds of resident monks. These monks have greatly contributed toward the development of church education and literature in Ethiopia. With this regard, Debre Damo has won unparalleled fame and reputation. This monastery has also served as a safe haven for Ethiopian kings that were pursued by enemies. The prominent example is that of Atse Lebne Dengle of the 16th century, who sought refuge during the fight of Ahmed Gragn’s army. The monastery of Debre Damo possesses many treasures including ancient manuscripts and crosses. Visiting the monastery emotionally takes you back to the distant past of Ethiopian religious life. Professor Richard Pankhurst rightly suggests, ” It takes today’s traveler into a past age and leaves him with a deeper understanding of Ethiopia’s age-old and unique civilization than mere words can give.”

Other Rock Churches of Tigray